There are a few dishes at True Thai that wake us with longing in the night. The royal Thai fish cakes ($5.50), golden, lumpen discs of fish, batter, curry, egg, and green beans that taste as fresh and big and exotic as a bouquet of orchids. The crispy catfish salad ($12.95), a zingy, lemon-lime sort of fireworks upon grated, salty, sour green mango. The lemon chicken soup ($9.95), as delicate as rain, as purely citrus-scented as a lemon grove. The green curry, as potent as a summer thunderstorm, as spicy as life in hot climates should be. Which is to say nothing of the toasty, roasty rama spinach curry, fresh with bright greens, generously sprinkled with pan-toasted peanuts. In short, we love True Thai because it gets under your skin and worms its way deep into your dreams.